This shows all the things I used to round off the inner layups on the saddle tabs after they were in place. What helped most was the curved pieces of hacksaw blade to work on the corners of the inner layups. Lots of files and careful Dremel use also.

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Now the 1/4" holes through the shims, bulkheads, and saddle tabs have been drilled, and some 1/4" threaded rod used to temporarily hold things in position. Note the drilling guide made out of a deep C-clamp and 1/4" ID aluminum tubing. The long 1/4" drill bit will also be used as the pilot drill for the 5/8" and 1" hole saws.

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The bushings are in place, but not glassed. Drill the bulkhead bushings first, using the 1" hole saw with the long pilot drill. Cut partway through each bulkhead before finishing either hole; this keeps the bushings aligned better. Leave the shims in place while drilling to keep the 1" hole saw from getting on through into the saddle tab. After the bulkheads are done, use the 5/8" hole saw with long pilot drill on the saddle tabs in the same way.

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This part's pretty easy. Sand everything, including the bushings, use lots of microglass, and bolt the whole thing together to cure. You still need shims behind the saddle tabs to keep the gear from sliding too far back. Epoxy will run down the gear leg outside, so watch for it and clean it off before it cures.